The Elements of Style

The Fashionista’s
Guide to Fall 2006Photograph by Kristahl
The September fashion magazines are out, and you’ve bulked up your biceps lifting them out of the mailbox. If there’s one thing I’ve always loved, it’s the fall season—especially now that school supplies, the Clairefontaine notebooks and Pilot pens of my college years, have given way to similarly necessary Diane von Furstenberg dresses and Michael Kors satchels. I may even plan an apple-picking trip just so I can wear a chunky Marc by Marc Jacobs sweater with cute little knit owls. But enough about me. Without further ado, the Fashionista’s picks for Fall oh-six.


Gentlemen,
The hottest, most accessible trend for fall is definitely the straight-leg jean. The look is modern, masculine, and undeniably sexy. Straight-leg covers a lot of territory, from comfortable (room to move) to extreme (think Diego Garcia). Colors are dark—blue, gray, or black. The straight-leg jean, long a favorite of the Wrangler crowd, is available everywhere from the Gap to Levi’s to Diesel. Once you put them on, you’ll never go back to “relaxed fit.”

The new James Bond, Daniel Craig, may have been named Esquire Magazine’s best-dressed man of the year, but not even 007 has as much influence on men’s style as your friend and mine, Johnny Depp. Granted, style is only 30% fashion and 70% attitude, but Capt. Jack Sparrow lacks in neither category. After Depp’s turn in Finding Neverland, men’s fashion experienced a “raconteur” or “dandy” moment, with emphasis on rich woven wools and intricate Liberty-style prints reminiscent of the turn of the 19th century. This year, after Pirates of the Caribbean: Dead Man’s Chest, Depp’s influence extends to men’s accessories, a long-neglected area once populated only by ties and cufflinks. Skulls, in any form, are everywhere, and layered chains with pendants like daggers, crosses, horns, and “found objects” are the height of panache. Stephen Webster and Chrome Hearts are at the forefront of this accessory explosion.

And now, some trends to avoid: unless you’re feeling the Rivers Cuomo or Grandpa Joe vibe, steer clear of the man-cardigan. I know, I know, I love it too, in that ironic sort of way, but I think it’s one of those concepts that’s better in theory than in execution. Remember: what’s good for Carlos D isn’t always good for you. Similarly, while velvet remains hot for fall, there’s a right way and a wrong way to wear it. The right way involves one posh piece, like a blazer (or, for the adventurous, a vest), worn with jeans after dark. The wrong way would be wearing a full-on velvet suit or wearing anything velvet during the day. Particularly if you work with animals or have pets that shed—forget velvet altogether. Although you are probably aware of the continuing prevalence of preppy, one final caution: this season’s sartorial styling relies on a single vital principle—irony. Much better to mix your tweeds with your plaids in a rumpled sort of way than to wear one or the other, neatly pressed, head to toe.

Ladies,
By now you have probably noticed the ubiquity of leggings. Now, just because I won’t wear them myself doesn’t mean I won’t condone them for others. When worn properly, leggings can be cute, and at least they can save you from the mortal sin of a skirt too short. And I actually love the legging with the extra-long sweater, à la Edie Sedgwick, maybe with a little ballet flat, no? Two things to remember when looking for the proper legging: length and opacity. As self-evident as it may sound, you will need to try on leggings before purchasing, as you’ll need to determine the best length for your body type. Stay away from leggings that end just below the knee or just above the ankle—these lengths look awkward on just about everyone—and aim for mid-calf instead. And please, don’t go anywhere near sheer; opaque is necessary if you don’t want to look like you’re wearing a cutoff pair of L’Eggs. The best thing about leggings: they’re cheap! Shouldn’t set you back more than $15-20 for a pair you’ll wear all season.

Sadly, the fashion world is experiencing what I’d like to call a “bag-lady” moment, perhaps inspired by Zoolander’s “Derelicte” line. In a charge led by the Olsen twins, designers are flaunting long dresses over baggy pants and Henley tops—dégoutante! That being said, there is an oversized look that can be worn stylishly. Now’s a great time to buy a maxi coat in a long length with big lapels, or a pair of wide-leg Hepburn-style pants. The key to pulling off this look is balancing an oversized piece with other trim separates—like the aforementioned extra-long sweater with leggings, or a slim pant under the maxi coat. At least one piece should be your proper size.

And I simply cannot let the opportunity pass to comment on my favorite accessory of all—jewelry. Luckily, many of the trends in jewelry are accessible to everyone, due in large part to the great fashion jewelry in the market today. On street corners from New York to San Francisco, you can buy fabulous big earrings or chunky wood-link necklaces, generally for around $10. You can also get dolled up this season with yellow gold jewelry (again, faux is widely available) and estate-style pieces (raid your grandmother’s jewelry box!), especially emblematic pins and brooches (à la Hogwarts’ insignia). No well-dressed woman should leave the house without jewelry—not only is it a personal statement, but it can take an outfit from looking fairly put-together to looking expertly styled.

So, fashion pupils, ’tis the season for shopping. Make some key purchases to update your wardrobe and be the envy of your friends and neighbors, because this season is all about going back to cool.